Відео

I found this channel randomly researching metallic finishes on 3D prints because I want to try and tackle that... It will end up more expensive than expected but oh well. Great video. I never made any props with 3D prints so I had no idea about which sandpaper grids to use, how many coats of paint etc. incredibly informative. My original plan was to just to paint the prop silver and to do a pseudo-paint wash with black because my goal is to have black be visible to accentuate the details and add a bit of texture. After a bit of research, including this video, I think I'll do the opposite. I'll paint the thing matte black (probably with acrylic paint) and use rub n buff in places I want to be metallic and then hit it with a coat of lacquer (I'm a bit worried about acrylic paint but I can't get matte black spray paint and all the videos with the best results had some matte black first and that gave better contrast). I think the graphite has too many downsides for me including how it looks too uniform and you can't really touch it up with paint without sealing it in first with lacquer or something and that changes the finish a lot.

Good build, could do with cutting all the crap out though

Long Live The Empire!

Amazing lightsaber. Lucky kid!

How do you make the shape, what are the dimensions of the fin on the back from the parking sign

Very informative video again. I like seeing the sanding grits used, products, procedures and other stuff you've learned in detail. So many other peoples videos expect you to know about grits & processes already, never explain it & only show their results with their unexplained methods.

You can get a very reflective shiny reflective finish with silver rub'n'buff. The surface needs to be wet sanded to at least 600 grit and applied with a bare finger in a thin coat, but also moving quickly back and forth to build up friction and actually melts the wax creating the shine. Simply applying and waiting to dry and buff with a cotton rag will not achieve the same results. Depending on how large of an area needed can results in blisters on your fingers! 😲

Thanks for the video. I love the straight forward video and I love the options and explanations of the different filler. Very helpful

This video is fantastic, thanks for the awesome animated graphics. You made this very easy to follow and understand!

The funnels are out of stock where I am from, any alternatives?

You play beautifully!! ❤

The closeups had me thinking this was all metal. Very well done.

I love this build! I'm having trouble finding the accurate looking clear vials with the screw top in quantities under 500. You wouldn't happen to know where I can get some, would you?

Awesome video and exactly what I was looking for.

Why salt? Why add salt to the sand & flour mixture?

Seems like the parts that need to be glued, can be glued together prior to painting

Cute kid. Thanks for the vid.

from beginning to finish, how long total did it take you to work on this project?

Your videos are great. One improvement I would make is adhere the leather to the webbing with E6000 or fabric glue so they want to stay one piece.

You are the man!!! I know what I am doing this weekend!!!!

Did you seal the paint when it was done? How has your paint job held up? Got one of these and wish i had found your video a week ago.... Last night I changed my mind. I will update using the techniques you made in this video. Some questions I have: 1. If you are going to just cover the hole on the large side of the scope, then why did you drill it out? Why not just glue the picture flat agains the intact flat scope? Or did yours already have a hole in scope at both ends? Mine I bought is solid on both ends. Did you drill out the front? 2. Why didn't you make the ring for the scope the same diameter as the large end of the scope instead of having the step? The pics I have found do not have this step. 3. Did you glue the pop rivets to the power cylinders or not? Because it I do not see them when you glue the power cylinders to the blaster. 4. I ordered two pack of mic jacks. Glad I did. I had horrible time cutting mic jack perpendicular. So , what I did instead is I did not cut the black portion of mic jack. Instead I drilled an undersized hole with closest size drill bit I had. Then I sanded hole larger until I could press fit the mic jack into the hole. Then I glued it in place. 5. Also, looking back at video now, it looks like video sanded power cylinders smooth . I wish I had done that. Not sure I want to go back and sand now that they are painted.

THATS EPIC +_____+

Do you a version of this using blue tooth with seperate power supply to allow for the unit to be store on the body/inside helmet.

Do you have an active link to the sound bytes? The link that you have provided above does not work. Is there a better source that you would recommend? Thanks!

Badass

Imagine how fcked up it would be if he decided to throw it in the cupboard from Indian in the cupboard

Шляпа...!

I wonderif the graphite powder would work inconjunction with the mirror chrome?

9:14 sounds like Darth Vader was in the room or you just wear the storm trooper helmet all the time, but like with a regular tshirt.

Great work

Wow dude, the video and the finished product are super impressive. Thank you for sharing the tips, knowledge, techniques, and product info. Great work!

I'm doing my part. LONG LIVE THE EMPIRE!

yea that 2K clear stuff is awesome

What a great video thanks for share

Came for the T800 head build, stayed for the flatulence.

Excellent work! Now it's time to start on the torso!😁

wow great work !!

Would love to make this and electroplate it. Nice work.

Great Video! Excellent instructions and suggestions! It is good to see the other products that you use as well. Thanks and keep up the good work!

didn't see that "no name 2k gloss" you mentioned to bring back the chrome shine after using the aqua gloss clear with a link to purchase it?

I have two T-800 heads, one is ready for paint but I don’t have an air brush. The coaxial RG6 was a brilliant idea, printing them is a pain!! I printed them in half as you did, but I printed them upside down like a bowl so there was little support to remove. I also installed a pressure switch at the bottom of the CPU port so when the CPU is inserted, the eyes light up. When removed, they shut off. Other than that, I’ll be using some of the techniques from this video to expedite the sanding and filling process on the second head. Awesome build!

++ URGENT!!! John 3:16 For God loved the world, so He gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. Realize you're a SINNER! You CANNOT earn your way into heaven! JESUS is the ONLY way! REPENT and CALL upon JESUS to SAVE you now! BELIEVE that JESUS is the Son of God, that He came in the flesh, lived a sinless life and then died on a CROSS for you! TRUST that God raised JESUS from the dead! By FAITH accept the shed BLOOD of JESUS ALONE as payment for YOUR sins! Almighty God is about to pour out JUDGEMENT on this world! Only Christians born again in the SPIRIT are about to VANISH! Dear LORD, please soften hearts now to accept the GOSPEL - the Good News of JESUS CHRIST!

Amazing project!! ❤ I have to use this kind of painting for my robots... 😮

There is a guy who losted a eye. With help from a glass eye tech and a electronic tech. Made a eye with a red led in it that if I remember correctly. Used a magnet to turn on / off the eye. This guy like going to bars and turning on his eye before removing his sunglasses.

The best step-by-step process for this that I have seen. I highly recommend this video. Kudos for your concise detailed explanations

This is a tutorial of how to do tutorials! 👍

👍

Thanks for this - it's really helpful. If you were now to go back to putting a metallic finish on an aircraft model, would you use this method or adapt it in some way?

Im glad you are making videos again!

Lots of great tips! The Stylo is such an underrated tool for it's lower speed capability and price.